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Offline Patrick Bateman

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  • Bike: K1600GTL & ZX10R
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Spotlight Installation
« on: April 09, 2018, 05:28:25 AM »
Quite a few people have been asking and msg-ing about my spotlight install so I figured it was time to write it up.



INTRO
First of all, I never intend to use the front power socket so it is a perfect power source for my LED light setup. If you plan on using yours as well, then I would recommend you run some power/earth wires from the battery and tap into the power socket to operate a relay.

The 12v+ supply to the power socket is current protected by an intelligent circuit breaker and it is possible to trip it when using spot lamps that draw a lot of current. The lamps I used are 12v 3a each + the Skene unit which draws almost nothing and it has never given me any issues.

The 25w LEDs I have been using are the equivalent of 200w halogen lamps and they are absolutely blinding to oncoming traffic when run at 100% duty – so be mindful of the distraction/attention they can cause.

PARTS




TOOLS




PROCEDURE

  • Remove the two torx screws attaching the LH inner cover, disconnect the power socket wiring plug and remove the cover. Do the same on the RH inner cover, but no power socket this time.



  • Remove the torx screws from both sides that hold the underside of the head fairing layers together and remove the nut clips that they screwed into.



  • Clean around the fastener hole with an alcohol wipe then carefully place the protective vinyl circle over it. (This will protect the fairing from being scratched once the light is mounted).



  • At this location, 3 individual pieces of the fairing intersect so it provides a strong mounting point for the lights. The hole is just a little tight for the M8 bolts to pass through so, using the 8.5mm drill bit, ream out the fastener hole diameter.

  • Attach the LED fog lights to the bike, using the flat washer on the inside. If your fog lights did not come with nyloc nuts, then buy some and use them here – you don’t want the fog lights working themselves loose. Do not overtighten these bolts, they only need to be firm enough to allow for fog light rotational adjustment but prevent them from moving on their own and you really don’t want to start crushing the fairings.



  • Next, ensure you understand this wiring diagram for the Skene controller - lay your components out first then cut the wire lengths to suit. Always cut them longer than you need and trim the excess upon final fitment.



  • Find a nice mounting point for the Skene controller under the LH inner cover, peel back the adhesive backing and stick it in place.
    Remove the power socket from the LH inner cover, insert the DIN plug and tape it good so that they can’t separate – then find somewhere out-of-the way to fasten it in place under the inner cover and secure it with a cable tie.





  • Remove the power socket from the Left side inner cover and install the rocker switch. You may need to enlarge the hole slightly with a reamer or stepped drill bit – be careful not to go too far and ensure it is a snug fit.

  • Before you solder any wires, fit any braiding or heat shrink to your wiring first! Be sure that all soldered connections have good absorption and protect them with insulation tape. I’ve seen too many shitty soldering jobs over the years to know that taking your time and doing it right will give you years of trouble-free operation.

  • Connect all your earth wire from your DIN plug to:
    a.   The Skene controller
    b.   The Left side LED negative wire
    c.   The Right side LED negative wire

  • Connect the Violet/White wire from the Skene unit to the Left side LED positive wire.

  • Connect the Orange/White wire from the Skene unit to the Right side LED positive wire

  • Connect the power wire from the DIN plug to:
    a.   The Violet and Orange wires from the Skene
    b.   The hot side of the rocker switch (using a spade terminal) and make sure you leave sufficient length so that the inner cover can still be easily removed.

  • Connect the cold side of the rocker switch (using another spade terminal) to the Red wire of the Skene unit.

  • Connect the White wire from the Skene unit to the power feed of the high beam lamp. (You will probably need to extend the length of this wire). Bearing in mind this is only being used as an input signal – not a power source – and draws hardly any current so it will not cause any CAN faults. Either use a Positap so it can be easily removed or solder it for a semi- permanent connection.

  • Before you start boxing it all up, test the system and make sure it works!

  • Tidy up the wiring, attach it under the headlight assembly with a few cable ties and put the braid/conduit over the wiring that runs out to the lights, refit the RH & LH inner covers. Before you fit the covers, you may want to trim a little bit of the black fairing to relieve stress from the lamp harness (shown below)



.   

OPERATION
With the bike running, hit the rocker switch to turn on the LED fog lights – they will flash 3 times then revert to low-power setting. (The low-power intensity can be customised in the setup of the Skene Controller). Full power is accessed by either pulling or pushing the high beam switch.
Using the high beam switch makes operation very easy and becomes intuitive quickly. This helps when you need to quickly flash an idiotic driver or cut the lights off when traffic appears ahead.

Note that the power socket stays active for 30 seconds after the bike is switched off – so the lights will too.

The Skene controller comes pre-setup with 20% duty cycle on low power setting, and 100% duty cycle on high power setting. This is fine for me and the LED spot lights I chose to use – on low power, they work well during the day as a DRL and aren’t too bad at night. High power is insane and turn night into day.
I need to return some videotapes.

Online LAMBO281

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #1 on: April 09, 2018, 10:25:51 AM »
WOW nice write up mate! Garage looks awesome some! I’m seriously considering this now

Online otrp

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #2 on: April 09, 2018, 12:08:01 PM »
+1. Absolutely excellent write up.    :460:

Offline Low-Brau

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #3 on: April 09, 2018, 02:16:25 PM »
A write-up so beautiful it made me cry.  Wow.  The finished result is clean and blends well with the 'XR.
-Erik

"...but the XR is a sports bike on stilts!"
  -- zbdmark

Offline smithy

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #4 on: April 09, 2018, 09:14:17 PM »
What a write-up..!

Absolutely BRILLIANT work Sir.... :046: I've seen none better. Kudos. :028:

Smithy.

When I die, I want to go peacefully in my sleep like my Grandfather....not screaming like the passengers in his car..!

Offline Auldy

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #5 on: April 27, 2018, 12:13:35 PM »
Excellent write up and pics Patrick

Could you advise what brand lights you utilised on the fit

Regards
 :821:
Auldy

Offline Gazk

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #6 on: April 27, 2018, 12:33:59 PM »
bien joué, :037:
After over thirty years behind the bars, I’ve still not done it all or seen it all.

https://www.youtube.com/user/emmanuelgoldstein1

Offline Patrick Bateman

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  • Bike: K1600GTL & ZX10R
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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #7 on: April 27, 2018, 01:03:45 PM »
*Originally Posted by Auldy [+]
Excellent write up and pics Patrick

Could you advise what brand lights you utilised on the fit

Regards
 :821:
Auldy

Jaycar!

https://www.jaycar.com.au/compact-25w-solid-led-spotlight/p/SL3930

You might be able to find them cheaper on Ebay
I need to return some videotapes.

Offline Auldy

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  • Town: Sydney
Spotlight Installation
« Reply #8 on: April 29, 2018, 11:06:32 AM »
Thank you
Jaycar units look good and you get what you pay for.

Now to start saving
 :821:
Auldy

Offline norequests

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Re: Spotlight Installation
« Reply #9 on: June 04, 2018, 07:37:53 PM »
Thanks for the amazing write up. This post gave me the courage to perform the same installation with a few differences:

1. Did not use the DIN power socket.

I knew i was likely going to add more electrical components in the future, and also wanted to retain usage of the DIN socket for acessories. I went with a Fuzeblocks FZ-1 power distribution unit which i installed in the tail of the bik and ran power to the front with.

2. Used a handlebar switch.

Since i was unable to put a rocker switch in place where the DIN socket was, i opted for a two position handlebar switch from Amazon in order to control on/off.

3. Tapped the highbeam power in different (weird?) spot.

I had a hard time finding a wiring diagram to tap the highbeam switch so I did so right next to the light socket itself.

Some of the parts I used:

Handlebar rocker switch:
https://www.amazon.com/IZTOSS-waterproof-Motorcycle-aluminium-Interrupteur/dp/B0171G7GD4/ref=br_lf_m_k9fg379g35gh6rc_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=automotive

25 watt lights
https://www.google.ca/amp/s/m.aliexpress.com/item/32837073319.html

Fuzeblock FZ-1
https://www.fuzeblocks.com/Fuzeblocks-FZ-1-Distribution-Block_p_1.html

I’ll post pictures once I figure out how to use this gallery from my phone

 


dysfunctional