towing xr on a trailer

[gtbusa]

hi all,covid allowing,we have decided to spend next summer in france and take the xr with us on a trailer.where are the best anchor points,how do you guys strap the bike down,any tips and pics welcome,having nightmares of the bike spinning across the motorway.cheers alan

[Mareng1]

Go for a "plated" trailer, not some "welded by a mate who knows his stuff" abortion. I think French Police are keen on seeing plated trailers.

Bikelug and similar are attractive, but if you look to transport 2 bikes - no.

Even if you have a fixed light board - if you are leaving the trailer outside, get a removable light board and fit it only when you are going to use the trailer. Easier for testing too.

Try and avoid those bar-end strops - there are a lot of expensive controls on the bars these days, that could get damaged.

Use cargo straps on the forks/clamp, ensuring that they are protected from chafing.

Use a cloth on the front rim and tighten a small ratchet-strap to pull the front wheel into the wheel socket.

Don't use those open-hooks on ratchet-straps. Use decent carabiners which can't unhook if the bike bounces about on potholes etc.

Don't cover the bike on the trailer - the covers at best will flap around, rip and mark paintwork edges. At worst - they can wear away the bike paint on panel edges!

Consider one of those rear wheel clamps (bearing in mind you will have to remove the hugger and exhaust can to do so) - as that secures the unsprung bike. It takes only 5mins to remove my XR can and hugger. (don't forget to bung them, and the tools into the car)

Pack extra ratchet straps and grip straps in the car, in case you require additional.

Use re-usable cable ties for:
1.  Securing the ratchet handles to the bodies.
2.  securing folded-up strap tails to the cargo straps.
3.  making sure that the trailer safety chain/wire - is secured in place so that in event of a ball detachment, the chain/wire doesn't jump off.

With bike trailers being very rudimentary in the suspension area- when the trailer is 'jiggling' about - the bike will also. If the bike doesn't appear to be doing that - it might be starting to loosen.

Some people even use a reversing camera (aftermarket) and instead of powering from the reversing lamps - mount a switched supply and they can keep an eye on the trailer/bike low-down any time they want during the journey.

When you set off on a long journey - stop after 20 miles and check over the securing arrangement.

Take photos of the arrangement.  Then, if it proved to be satisfactory - you can refer to that next time.

Last but not least: When you have finished securing the bike to the trailer - push it to and fro and declare: "That's not going anywhere"    

[gtbusa]

hi  Mareng1,thanks for the reply,excellent info,andv yes i have purchased a proper plated single bike trailor

[Winger]

Having had 5 years of my life moving bikes for a living or be it in a van, the mans info is great but if you are in it for the long haul, i’d Have custom straps made(I did) so the one end works like a lasso which is the end on the bike.

I’ll do a photo if needed.

[gtbusa]

thanks winger,photo would be great

[Winger]

Ignore the hooks..I only got away with using those because I was in a LWB Sprinter,you need to do what Mareng said and fit carabiner bikes on trailers bounce way too much 

[gtbusa]

gotya cheers

[Mareng1]

I would also add - that when I trailer my bike (probably twice a year) - I load it up the night before if heading south, and take my time with the securing.  If you are on a schedule in the morning - it saves you rushing it, just to get on the road.

I also get someone to assist with getting the bike on the trailer, and make it clear what each of us is doing.  I generally leave in first, and keep the clutch in.   if you get it half-way up the ramp, it allows you to stop there easily.   First thing to go on is the rear wheel clamp.  once that is on - the bike isn't going anywhere.

When taking off the trailer, leaving in 1st and using the clutch to regulate the speed off the trailer - allows you to do it yourself without assistance.   Sure, there are people who do this every day, but when you are doing it occasionally on a bike with relatively high bars - it is not so easy as that 600cc sports bike. 

This is a webbing strap version (which might even be better than the steel one I have) https://www.stpraceproducts.com/products/motorbike-transport-tie-down-wheel-strap-light-orange-polyester-webbing-strap?variant=42520665799&currency=GBP&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&utm_campaign=gs-2020-04-17&utm_source=google&utm_medium=smart_campaign&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk53-BRD0ARIsAJuNhptPY12gLeTRUgiuHqe4qf7RtylO7cP-leElUJ7VHMYxf8szoM26aN4aAq_ZEALw_wcB



Or this complete unit from Demon Tweeks:   https://www.demon-tweeks.com/bike-it-tiedown-tyre-fix-biktiefix/?istCompanyId=a2904180-3a7d-4e56-b876-cf81c9512180&istFeedId=6fbc4b04-fd28-4ce1-8513-835c8f118690&istItemId=wptiltipq&istBid=t&gclid=Cj0KCQiAk53-BRD0ARIsAJuNhptPv_C_VLMsEhotjbQvBfewtSe7yoDwnzCKrckk8kW-QlB_vk7h52IaAgI5EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

I basically look at the whole system, and think:  "What could possibly come loose/undone?" and address that.   I even make sure that the tow-ball release handle cannot vibrate up on the journey.      Imagine a trailer with a 200kg bike on it coming loose on the motorway at 60mph. 

Don't be shy of renewing the wheel bearings every 5 years.  for all that costs, it is worth it.  Check bearing temperatures after 20miles.   Some trailers have easily-replaceable hub units.   Nothing wrong with keeping a couple of spare assemblies in the car - easily changed at the side of the road if necessary.  They aren't expensive.

Don't forget to drive smoothly - always remembering that you have a trailer on.

[scotti]

Depending on your age, don't forget to check that your license allows you to tow.

[gtbusa]

thanks again  Mareng1,all valuable info