Delayed servicing

[PJP1]

Hi, been a member of the forum for 4 years but needed to rejoin. I have 15 plate S1XR. Only covered 5k miles and only 200 per year over the last 3 years. My question is that I hope to cover more this year as time allows but want to know what maintenance I need to catch up on. It had its first and second service at the dealer, the second at 4K 3 years ago, I have done the oil and filters since but nothing else has been touched aside from chain lube, tyre pressures etc.
Thanks for any guidance

[wessie]

Has the brake fluid been changed? If it is 5 years old then it may have absorbed quite a bit of water from the atmosphere as it is hygroscopic.

Tyres: are they the originals? At 6 years old I would change them as they will be way past their best.

If I was going on a long journey I would want the peace of mind and do or get a full annual service, maybe in conjunction with an MOT if that is needed as well.

[Winger]

Originally Posted by PJP1

Hi, been a member of the forum for 4 years but needed to rejoin. I have 15 plate S1XR. Only covered 5k miles and only 200 per year over the last 3 years. My question is that I hope to cover more this year as time allows but want to know what maintenance I need to catch up on. It had its first and second service at the dealer, the second at 4K 3 years ago, I have done the oil and filters since but nothing else has been touched aside from chain lube, tyre pressures etc.
Thanks for any guidance

Most important where has it been stored, mine resides in a centrally heated exactly the temperature as my living room to the point I can leave the door open between the two, no excuse for not doing various bits and bobs that need servicing but storage is most important.

Brake fluid... you need to activate the ABS I use a GS-911WIFI, but as a bodge to get you out of jail just bleed both ends as per old style and bit in the middle will have to wait till another day.

I have a fair amount to do with the bike trade and could write a book at the servicing on bikes that doesn’t get done and they still keep running, but ideally as Wessie said i’d Change tyres just be on the safe side.

But we are back to we’re it has been stored...if it’s been damp i’d Want the brake pads out just check for corrosion and on the pistons, if it’s been dry stored then i’d Just ride it after the above.

[PJP1]

Thanks for the prompt replies. It’s been parked in the garage, not heated but it’s a new drylined garage, on a carpet, trickle charged etc.

Original tyres that are nearing replacement. Original brake fluid.

It’s regularly started, but actually only been ridden 3/4 times per year this last 3 years.

In 2 years I will retire so keeping it and will use it much more. Been MOT’d and permanently taxed and insured.

Will follow your advice, thanks both

Paul

[SimonUK]

Definitely brake fluid and tyres. I would also do an oil and filter change and check the air filter. It also may not be unwise to get the battery tested properly.

[PJP1]

Will do, thanks for the advice

[Winger]

With 6 bikes on the go or not as the case maybe, there’s always a couple that stand way too long, frankly I can get away with all of the above, but the one thing I do before even pressing the button, syphon most of the old fuel cuz Jeez does it go off and put fresh in makes a helluva different.

I have one with a 7 year lithium battery and it’s still good.

[PJP1]

I still have to original battery, always been on a trickle. Fuel, hadn’t really thought about that one, how long does it stay “fresh”

[Winger]

Good question...I work on 6 months particularly as manufacturers of fuel put more crap in it, but hey i’ve started bikes on fuel way older than that, just think if you want your bike to be nice to you be nice to it  , certainly do not throw old fuel away the lawn mower loves it 

[runnerhiker]

Originally Posted by PJP1

It’s regularly started, but actually only been ridden 3/4 times per year this last 3 years.



Paul

Be careful with this practice, if not done right it would be worse than not running it at all.  You should run the engine long enough to get to operating temperature, don't use the coolant temperature as a guide for engine temperature, it takes much longer for the oil and the engine to get to operating temperature.  I had a Corvette, it had an oil temperature indication, the coolant could get to operating temperature in about 10 minutes but the oil took about 30 minutes to get to temperature.  That was a big V8 with 5 quarts of oil, the XR won't take that long, but......