BMW S1000XR 2020 Forged Wheels Options, issues, and costs

[ROKIN]

What are the options for getting forged wheels on a 2020 XR? [/b]

I'm looking at upgrading my 2020 XR to forged wheels. The dealer quoted me to add the Mforged wheels will be $5,200 after all the parts needed to make it fit. I have looked at the aftermarket as well. A lot of people suggest Dynomag but after contacting them they say theirs only fits up to a 2018 model. I don't want to do carbon due to its rigidity issues I want to stay with an alloy for my road riding.

Has anyone else had luck putting aftermarket wheels on 2020 or finding a cheap way of getting the BMW wheels? How did you, From who did you buy, How much blood and cash did it take to make it happen?

I have read a few other threads but a lot seems to be about earlier models which had a different size and fit.

https://www.s1000xr.uk/index.php/topic,1765.0.html
https://www.s1000xr.uk/index.php/topic,1765.0.html
https://www.s1000xr.uk/index.php/topic,5815.0.html
https://www.bikehps.com/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SS=BMW+S1000XR+2020%20onwards+Wheels&ACTION.x=0&ACTION.y=0&page=search&PR=-1&TB=A
https://www.bikehps.com/cgi-bin/ss000001.pl?SS=BMW+S1000XR+2020%20onwards+Wheels&ACTION.x=0&ACTION.y=0&page=search&PR=-1&TB=A
https://www.s1000rrforum.com/threads/2020-m-carbon-wheels.240230/[/url]

Update: Just some info that was hard to figure out at a glance. I got quoted at my dealer $5,600 for the forged wheels, but after checking a lot of the extra stuff was redundant, the actual wheels themselves are the only ones needing replacement, Not the sensors, or anything.  the BMW S1000RR 2018 and the S1000XR 2020 have the exact same wheels, down to the spacers and bolts so you can cross-check parts here. But the 2018XR and the 2020 XR are different wheels, so unfortunately dyomag currently only makes them for 2018. I will Post any companies here that I find manufacture Wheels for even the 2018 RR it being around longer and more popular I hope to find somewhere that does.

https://www.shopbmwmotorcycles.com/v-2020-bmw-motorrad-s1000xr----/wheels-and-tires--wheels-with-bearings
https://www.shopbmwmotorcycles.com/v-2020-bmw-motorrad-s1000xr----/wheels-and-tires--wheels-with-bearings
https://www.shopbmwmotorcycles.com/v-2018-bmw-motorrad-s1000rr----/wheels-and-tires--wheels-with-bearings

[SimonUK]

If the '18 RR wheels fit the new gen XR you should check these out

https://www.coremoto.com/category_s/7083.htm

[Momo1970]

If you look for quicker steering perhaps you can save some $$ by changing just the front wheel ?

[ROKIN]

I have heard of people doing this, but my question is why the front over the rear? Dosnt the rear have more mass so more gyroscopic resistance? Wouldn't it be better to change that one? Or is there something that comes into okay with the front wheel?

[Momo1970]

You steer the bike with your front wheel. There are benefits for changing the rear wheel one of them would be better acceleration. However, for quicker turn in lighter front would do the trick.

[Antares]

Originally Posted by Momo1970

You steer the bike with your front wheel. There are benefits for changing the rear wheel one of them would be better acceleration. However, for quicker turn in lighter front would do the trick.

Not sure if that's entirely the case since the rear wheel does in fact contribute the larger portion of the gyroscopic effects keeping the wheel upright, reducing either wheel weight would reduce that and should make the bike tip over easier. Same with acceleration, since you have to accelerate both wheels anyway (unless you're pulling a fat wheelie) In fact, I'm not sure about the durability of forged options like Dymags VS stocks, but it might even make more sense to leave the fronts stock (if) they are stronger since they get the most punishment from potholes and bumps.

[Mareng1]

The front wheel during high speed countersteer is the first change of rotation, but after that - both wheels must change rotational direction to effect a turn.

In that respect, my initial thought might be that the rear has more inertia to defeat, and therefore the more beneficial from lightening.     But - in measurement, I think you would need to know what the reduction in rotational inertia is - for a bare OEM wheel / bare forged wheel for front and also for rear.  The bare wheel with the biggest reduction in rotational inertia - is the most effective.  It isn't enough to go by weight - A forged wheel may have lighter hub and spokes, but a heavier rim.  In that scenario - there may actually be an increase in rotational inertia over OEM (the rim having the most effect on rotational inertia).

For acceleration and deceleration - as mentioned, during normal riding, both wheels are in play - and the above rotational inertia regime will also apply.

So - until a maker can state what the rotational inertia values are at a decent rpm of their wheel compared to OEM - I think we are left guessing as to whether the front or rear is the most effective.

UNLESS someone has done the experiments on the bike, and have a decent 'seat of the pants' conclusion?

[runnerhiker]

There are some interesting points here, things that I usually don't think about.  My default thinking was that lighter wheels were usually desirable and that price was the only negative.  But the points made about the gyroscopic effect remind me that I live in a sometimes windy place, in which case, the heavier wheels will help keep the motorcycle upright.  The seat of the pants experience is that 60 mph is better than 30 mph in a strong cross wind.

Bottom line is:  can $5,000 wheels be felt in the seat of the pants?  Either for quicker turn in or for more stability in a cross wind?  I am no Rossi, for me personally, I would feel the wallet a lot more than the seat of the pants.

I am afraid this is not of much help to the OP.

[Antares]

Originally Posted by runnerhiker

There are some interesting points here, things that I usually don't think about.  My default thinking was that lighter wheels were usually desirable and that price was the only negative.  But the points made about the gyroscopic effect remind me that I live in a sometimes windy place, in which case, the heavier wheels will help keep the motorcycle upright.  The seat of the pants experience is that 60 mph is better than 30 mph in a strong cross wind.

Bottom line is:  can $5,000 wheels be felt in the seat of the pants?  Either for quicker turn in or for more stability in a cross wind?  I am no Rossi, for me personally, I would feel the wallet a lot more than the seat of the pants.

I am afraid this is not of much help to the OP.

Going from a cast rim on a 1990s SRAD to some Dymags 100% be felt, whether they actually improve your riding experience or not? Who knows. The XR loses a lot less weight so all effects are also lesser, from what I recall, but don't quote me, some Dymag UP7X's only shed just under 1kg on the rear and about 0.5 on the front, but then they are also likely stronger than stock, BMW claim their own forged wheel are 2.4kg lighter than standards as a set. Take all this as you will.