Stalled and dropped

[Fitz]

Hi all,

A couple of weeks ago I pulled out of a junction turning right and clearly revs were too low, didnt compete the turn and the bike stalled when full right hand lock, half way through the turn, meaning dead weight bike on its side and me on my arse in the middle of a junction.

The crash bars paid for themselves that day but it has left me questioning how it happened in the first place.  Obvious reason is I let the rev drop too low, very embarrassing.

Are these bikes known for issues at low rev or is it still simply me getting used to the bike?

The clutch biting point is very high, almost full release so there isn’t a huge biting point area to play with and feather the throttle through.  That could be an excuse but, it is rocked my confidence a little, ironically at slow speeds.

Cheer

Fitz

[wessie]

You need to adapt to the bike. Once you are used to the revs needed, the clutch bite point and the low speed steering it is a pussycat to ride. I have recently got back from riding some tight and nadgery roads in the Pyrenees & Picos and it is very easy to manage in such terrain.

[Momo1970]

The bike gearing is too high. I suggest to change the sprocket (rear or front) to make the gearing shorter. Definitely helps with the get go from standing still, also helps with keeping the engine i. The upper revs in tight canyon roads.

[Antares]

Originally Posted by Momo1970

The bike gearing is too high. I suggest to change the sprocket (rear or front) to make the gearing shorter. Definitely helps with the get go from standing still, also helps with keeping the engine i. The upper revs in tight canyon roads.

Absolutely unneeded, just gotta adapt to it. I ride this bike in near stop and go traffic everyday, absolutely nothing wrong with gearing or revs, once you get used to the far out clutch, you'll find it a piece of cake as Wessie says, bike has tonnes of grunt down low, just gotta know how to use it.

[RyanGTXR]

Never had any issue at all, always set my previous bikes clutches far out anyway as less of a flick required for wheelies :D

[Winger]

Originally Posted by wessie

You need to adapt to the bike.

It’s as simple and uncomplicated as that.

If you have the money, a set of aftermarket headers/end can and fuelling device and the bottom grunt can be increased no end.

[smithy]

Originally Posted by Antares

Absolutely unneeded, just gotta adapt to it. I ride this bike in near stop and go traffic everyday, absolutely nothing wrong with gearing or revs, once you get used to the far out clutch, you'll find it a piece of cake as Wessie says, bike has tonnes of grunt down low, just gotta know how to use it.

Agree, no shorter gearing is needed, l've actually gone taller with a 42 rear sprocket and still have no issues.

Smithy.

[Darty65]

Adjust the clutch so the biting point is closer to the handlebar and switch hill start control to manual or off.

[bobdave]

Whilst Ive never had a problem with it I understand what you are saying. I think that like lots are saying no need to change gearing or clutch bite point (in fact if you bring it in close it impacts smooth gear changes. You need to adapt to the bike but I also believe you need to be positive with it. If you are too cautious I reckon you could end up stalling and getting in a mess. Me, I enjoy being positive and using the throttle !

[Fitz]

Thanks for the replies, appreciate the comments.  Seems like more revs and more time out on the bike will be the best course of action.