Loose Handlebar Clamp

[RiderJC]

The handlebar clamp teeters back and forth if I push forward on the bars, and then pull backwards. It’s moving significantly.  I tightened the nut on the handlebar riser/clamp below the top triple clamp, but it still rocks and doesn’t seem to be tightening the clamp down.  I’m thinking that the bolt that goes through the clamp is not held in place on the topside under the handlebar itself. Anybody know what I’m dealing with before I dive in?

[Antares]

Originally Posted by RiderJC

The handlebar clamp teeters back and forth if I push forward on the bars, and then pull backwards. It’s moving significantly.  I tightened the nut on the handlebar riser/clamp below the top triple clamp, but it still rocks and doesn’t seem to be tightening the clamp down.  I’m thinking that the bolt that goes through the clamp is not held in place on the topside under the handlebar itself. Anybody know what I’m dealing with before I dive in?

Bars are rubber mounted, might be the sleeves have worn out a little. It's a fairly cheap fix you just need to replace said parts, but you will always have a little movement in the bars.

[Mareng1]

It may be as simple as relaxation of the plastic/neoprene/nylon vibration spacer and just needs retightening.

At worst - there may be some sort of softening or degredation in the spacer material.

Tighten back up with some low-yield threadlock or once tightened - mark the bolt-heads to check for any loosening of the bolts.

[RiderJC]

I think it’s a bad design. Normally, on most mounting bolts for the handlebar clamp, they have the nut under the triple tree and the bolt itself usually has a hex head that drops into the top handlebar clamp. On this bike they are round allen/star head bolts. So, when you set the handlebar in the clamps to keep them aligned as you tighten the nut on the bottom, the head of the bolt turns in the clamp not allowing the nut to torque. So, you take the handlebar off to use a star bit to hold the head from turning, now the clamp moves out of alignment of where the handlebar should sit. Not to mention, good luck getting a 16mm socket on the nut under the clamp. Had to use a wobble head extension. It allows the socket to move just enough to seat the socket. That’s on the left side of the bike. On the right side there’s a mounting protrusion for the cables that run down that side right in the way….. If you hold the nut and torque/turn the head of the bolt, the clamp turns out of alignment. I think a crescent wrench with a towel  padding it will be able to hold the clamp in the right position……. I do notice that there’s a spacer that the bolt travels through, so if it still tips after proper torqueing, it could be the rubber vibration mounts might be shot, as Mareng1 suggested.  Hard to believe on a bike with five-thousand miles on it. I’ll let you know…..

[RiderJC]

OK, it turns out that there is a spacer, so no mater how much you tighten it, it will not crush the rubber and stop the rocking. Must need new rubber bushings. Good or bad design, I'm sure it's done for a reason. New rubbers it is.......

[Antares]

Originally Posted by RiderJC

OK, it turns out that there is a spacer, so no mater how much you tighten it, it will not crush the rubber and stop the rocking. Must need new rubber bushings. Good or bad design, I'm sure it's done for a reason. New rubbers it is.......

As i mentioned you'll always have a little wobble, unless it's actually clicking with each move, or it's excessively wobbling it's likely fine, if you're gonna get new rubbers you only need the 2 rubber pieces "10" and "13" on the image below, tho 10 is the one that actually causes the wobble, they've updated both parts in the Gen 1.1 (Euro 4) bikes, so it's better to get them too. As for why it's loose? If it's an early gen 1 with low mileage chances are rubber had time to perish a little, that's assuming the wobble you have is actually not the normal amount.

 

[RiderJC]

Thanks Antares. When you say Gen 1.1 what year would that be? How do I know and order the correct updated ones?

[Antares]

Originally Posted by RiderJC

Thanks Antares. When you say Gen 1.1 what year would that be? How do I know and order the correct updated ones?

Gen 1 (Euro 3) 2015-2016
Gen 1.1 (Euro 4) 2017-2019
Gen 2 (Euro 5) 2020 - onwards

I call them gen 1.1 cos they are virtually identical to the Euro 3 except for a few small changes like these, to tell if you got a euro 4 or euro 3 look at your diagnostic port under the seat, if it's a standard OBD2 (trapezoid) it's Euro 4, if it's a round plug it's euro 3.

As for getting the right part number, I think the old numbers are obsolete and they only sell the new version now. But if you ask a BMW dealer they can give you the exact part.

One more thing, just careful on the parts because I just had a look at the Maxbmw part diagram and the same parts are labelled 11 and 14 instead of 10 and 13 and the Sleeve is upside down, just make sure it's the right part you're looking at.

[RiderJC]

Good to know. My bike is the 19, and has the trapezoid port. I know this because I ordered the round diagnostic tool by accident the first time. Perfect, thanks for the help.....