Slight rattle after installing manual cam chain tensioner

[OlivierB]

Hey everyone,
I had a real rough idle when starting cold, my XR is of ‘16 with 18k km’s on it so I figured I would either change the black cap tensioner to the silver cap as this puts more pressure on the chain. I chose to go with a manual cam chain tensioner instead.

I checked out multiple videos of how to install correctly and of course how to adjust properly. I start the bike, twist the adjuster bolt slightly in until the harsh idle rattle disappears and tighten the nut to lock the adjuster in place.

Now the harsh rattle on start is a thing of the past but now I notice a rattle while riding. It’s definitely not as harsh or loud as the idle used to be but I also don’t recall this slight rattle when I still had the oil pressured chain tensioner…

Could it be that the manual tensioner is set too tight? Or still too loose? Since the manual tensioner doesn’t move it also doesn’t adjust while riding as the chain gets tighter or looser (accelerating or decelerating) so could it also just be normal?

Trying to figure out if I’m being paranoid or if the manual tensioner was a bad move and I should try the silver cap instead…

[Antares]

If you just picked up the slack you should be fine there is a rather large window between rattle going away and the chain being too tight. That said, you could try playing around with it. Any rattle is unlikely to be a direct result of the manual tensioner, if it's too tight, it'll start to sound like it's whirring (as the chain slides against the tensioner slide).

[smithy]

Originally Posted by OlivierB

Hey everyone,
I had a real rough idle when starting cold, my XR is of ‘16 with 18k km’s on it so I figured I would either change the black cap tensioner to the silver cap as this puts more pressure on the chain. I chose to go with a manual cam chain tensioner instead.

I checked out multiple videos of how to install correctly and of course how to adjust properly. I start the bike, twist the adjuster bolt slightly in until the harsh idle rattle disappears and tighten the nut to lock the adjuster in place.

Now the harsh rattle on start is a thing of the past but now I notice a rattle while riding. It’s definitely not as harsh or loud as the idle used to be but I also don’t recall this slight rattle when I still had the oil pressured chain tensioner…

Could it be that the manual tensioner is set too tight? Or still too loose? Since the manual tensioner doesn’t move it also doesn’t adjust while riding as the chain gets tighter or looser (accelerating or decelerating) so could it also just be normal?

Trying to figure out if I’m being paranoid or if the manual tensioner was a bad move and I should try the silver cap instead…

The manual tensioner should be backed out until you can just hear a slight rattle, the screwed in until the rattle just goes away, then another 90-180 degrees, tighten the lock nut and you'll be good to go. The tensioner arm is plastic and is quite flexible. The chain doesn't change tension as the engine accelerates or decelerates. The Gen-1 cam chain and cams turn backwards compared to the crank, which is why the tensioner is at the front. Are you sure you don't have a slight clutch basket rattle..?? The earlier R's & RR's were known for it.

I've had a manual tensioner on my '17 model since new....l've only had to adjust it once since fitting....just shy of 60k km.

Smithy.

 

[OlivierB]

Originally Posted by smithy

The manual tensioner should be backed out until you can just hear a slight rattle, the screwed in until the rattle just goes away, then another 180 degrees, tighten the lock nut and you'll be good to go. The tensioner arm is plastic and is quite flexible. The chain doesn't change tension as the engine accelerates or decelerates. The Gen-1 cam chain and cams turn backwards compared to the crank, which is why the tensioner is at the front. Are you sure you don't have a slight clutch basket rattle..?? The earlier R's & RR's were known for it.

I've had a manual tensioner on my '17 model since new....l've only had to adjust it once since fitting....just shy of 60k km.

Smithy.

I’ve just had a listen to the bike on idle, I can’t seem to hear anything coming from the clutch housing. The rattle noice only comes alive while riding so I will have to investigate further. For now it seems to be coming from the front of the engine. Really reminds me of the timing chain though so I will also try the adjustment of the tensioner again for good measure..

[af1-windy]

Originally Posted by OlivierB

I’ve just had a listen to the bike on idle, I can’t seem to hear anything coming from the clutch housing. The rattle noice only comes alive while riding so I will have to investigate further. For now it seems to be coming from the front of the engine. Really reminds me of the timing chain though so I will also try the adjustment of the tensioner again for good measure..

Do you use ear plugs while riding? If so, use them off the bike too. I once had some ear plugs that blocked certain frequencies (as far as I understood it) and I used to hear rattles with them in, while riding, but nothing when I was off the bike (without plugs) trying to listen for the noise..

Could be a load of old tosh but worth a mention.. 

[mjojom]

I have a tiny chain rattle after installing my manual tensioner, however, I can just about hear it @ 90+ Centigrade. I put it down to chain stretch with heat enough to have a little slack. not sure if that's what it is, but my explanation keeps me sleeping lol

[smithy]

Originally Posted by mjojom

I have a tiny chain rattle after installing my manual tensioner, however, I can just about hear it @ 90+ Centigrade. I put it down to chain stretch with heat enough to have a little slack. not sure if that's what it is, but my explanation keeps me sleeping lol

Ideally the manual tensioners should be adjusted with engine at normal operating temp. The chains don't "stretch" as such when warm, the chain length difference between cold and warm would be in the microns, nothing worth worrying about.
Be sure to adjust the tensioner so the rattle is "just gone", then an aditional 90-180 degrees and lock it there. I've used this technique on mine for over 5 years with no issues.

The S1000 Gen-1 engine is mechanically noisey compared to most bikes I've owned, R's and RR's included. My old Honda Blackbird engine was turbine smooth and very quiet mechanically, likewise with my VFR1200. Even my current cruiser, Suzuki Boulevard M109R is very quiet mechanically compared to the XR.

Smithy.

[bazzer]

Mirrors rattling?

When I don't use earplugs I always think I blown it up, the bloody mirror glass rattles like a top end death rattle :-)

[OlivierB]

Tightened the tensioner with the 180° method. Works good but now the kinda rattle noice is more noticeable on the other side of the engine. This is more noticeable when I’m riding.. Normal or ??

https://vimeo.com/786303011

[smithy]

Originally Posted by OlivierB

Tightened the tensioner with the 180° method. Works good but now the kinda rattle noice is more noticeable on the other side of the engine. This is more noticeable when I’m riding.. Normal or ??

https://vimeo.com/786303011

Sounds just like mine, they are noisey...but I wonder if you might have a touch of the dreaded cam shaft/rocker issue..?? Have you had the rocker cover off recently, I know it's not due for the 30k km service..?? Might be worth having a look for peace of mind.

Mine was like new inside at the 30k km service, valve clearances were within spec...and is nearly due for the 60k km service.

Smithy.